The Road to San Miguel de Allende

A Brief Love Story

Guanajuato’s first Spanish settlement didn’t cry out “home” when I first passed through on a two-week road trip around Mexico with my now prometido. Every expat we met in those first 48 hours was convinced we’d fall in love with the San Miguel magic and move here with haste. We never planned to make this colonial-era town in north-central Mexico our long-term landing place. Nor did we seek out the breathtaking views of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, pastel pink spires piercing through cerulean skies.

I came here to do one thing: give birth.

About a month after my prometido and I returned from visiting Oaxaca, León, Agua Buena, Xilitla, Aguascalientes and Guadalajara, we stood toe-to-toe in the closet-sized bathroom of our studio apartment rental staring at two pink lines in shock. Pregnant! As a person who: a) had never been pregnant; b) had never lived in Mexico long-term; and c) would soon co-parent a Mexican child with a Mexican husband, my first thought was: 

Where will we give birth?

According to the Medical Tourism Association, over 1 million travelers from around the world visit Mexico annually for costly medical procedures not covered by their insurance. Eight out of every 10 of those “medical tourists” are from the US. This is because, on average, these treatments cost anywhere between 30 to 70 percent less in Mexico than they do stateside. While this illuminates a troubling disparity in both health systems, it was also partially my unlikely reason for moving to this World Heritage Site: CASA, Latin America’s top midwife school and birth clinic, is here.

In my nonlinear year-long journey—from a solo traveler who nearly drowned and got stalked during her first two days of vacation to the future mamá of Burmese-American-Mexican twins—ultimately the biggest joke is that my “high-risk, geriatric” pregnancy at age 37 with multiples means I can’t give birth at CASA anymore, the clinic that brought us here. Instead, we’re enjoying all this town has to offer before our home becomes a cacophonous whirlwind of diaper changes and tandem feedings.

From strutting down the cobblestone streets in a full face of catrina makeup among mariachi bands and festival goers at the Día de Muertos parade to stepping off the grid into stunning desert luxury, I’ve rounded up over 50 reasons you should book your trip to the heart of Mexico immediately. San Miguel de Allende is really worth the hype.

Top 40: Food & Drink

If Mexico isn’t already on your radar as a gastronomic pilgrimage, now’s the time to add it to your foodie bucket list. While destinations like Mexico City and Oaxaca are better known and more sprawling in size, San Miguel de Allende’s culinary talents are quickly becoming an undeniable force to reckon with. We’ve broken the scene down into eight different delectable categories, highlighting where to eat, drink, and learn about the unique flavors and ancestral techniques you won’t find anywhere else on the planet.

Coffee & Pastries

Spotlight: Panina

At the top of our list is Panina, a sun-filled bakery operated by a small team of women, open Wednesday to Sunday. Paulina Carreño opened Panina in 2020 for the love of masa madre (sourdough). Her small batch baked treats are the best in town, but you’ll have to arrive early if you want to snag one. By midday, Panina’s coveted everything bagels, sourdough loaves, and specialty pastries are often sold out. On Thursdays, they offer all-you-can eat sourdough pizza, a glass of wine and dessert for just $400 pesos (under $20 USD!) per person. You can also sign up for all-levels baking classes in their airy classroom-café or online.

Café del Barrio — Arab-American and woman-owned. At this family-friendly neighborhood hub, enjoy Middle Eastern platters and breakfast burritos, plus unique gatherings, friendly chess and ping pong matches, and open mic nights.

Lavanda — The specialty is in the name: five distinct lavender coffee drinks await you at their two outposts, along with an extensive menu at their Loreto location.

Raíces — Surprisingly affordable, this tiny outdoor oasis serves traditional Mexican breakfast and lunch every day except Tuesday using local and ancestral ingredients, innovative twists on classic dishes, and unmatched warm hospitality.

Amapola — Slide through this brunch cafe to the hidden back courtyard for a quiet retreat from the crowded city center, or visit one of its many rooftop marketplace pop-ups, which attract San Miguel’s hippest vendors and visitors.

Plant-Based

Soltribe — For many, “vegan” and “comfort” food aren’t synonymous. But for plant-based fanatics, this conscious, made-from-scratch menu is full of rotating surprises that serve vegetarian, gluten-free, and other dietary needs with flavor.

Don Taco Tequila — More than a dozen tacos and tortas will stretch the imagination for what contemporary Mexican cuisine means today. Unlike many plant-based restaurants, Don Taco Tequila also has a vast selection of spirits.

La Cabra Iluminada — What this cafe lacks in size, it makes up for in variety: plant-based milks, raw desserts, vegan pastries, and other international snacks.

Mercado Sano — This chic market and food hall packs in your one-stop for groceries, spiritual shopping (think: CBD tinctures, tribal art, copal incense, and herbal medicines), and ready-to-eat items to eat on site or to take home. Upstairs, there’s a stage for live music and a Sri Lankan restaurant, and on Saturdays, you can browse an extended organic market from diverse local vendors.

Jacques — Mediterranean magic, including the most pillowy pita in San Miguel, is the star of the breakfast and brunch menu at Jacques. There’s also a few meat options for your omnivorous friends, plus a charming rooftop terrace, mango lassi and golden milk, and sweet global rhythms humming from the speakers.

Mercados y Tianguis

Spotlight: Atotonilco

Number one on our “mercados y tianguis” (fixed and pop-up markets) list is Atotonilco, located approximately 20 minutes outside San Miguel de Allende, where the colorful markets are only activated on weekends. Atotonilco, home to the UNESCO World Heritage Site Sanctuary of Jesus Nazareno, also has some of the best street food, including a tiny cart dedicated to homemade ice cream that sells carrot, taro and avocado scoops, plus other inventive seasonal flavors. Because few Western tourists make it a point to visit, you’ll instead be immersed in a sea of local tourism with a small-town pulse and vintage artisans, welcoming visitors earnestly yet without fanfare.

San Juan de Dios — A small distinction exists between “fixed” (mercado) and “pop-up” (tianguis) markets in Mexico. Mercado San Juan de Dios is the former, reliably open daily as a staple location for food, flowers, and local meetups.

Mercado de las Artesanías — You can easily dedicate a few hours to walking among the crowded stalls and narrow passageways of this artisan market, with economically priced trinkets and clothing galore, and direct entry to the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez.

Tianguis de los Martes — Hardly a week goes by that I don’t visit the tianguis, making a beeline directly to Barbacoa Checo Tapia for a consommé my future husband says “brings your soul back to your body” and agua fresca. Another virtually tourist-free zone, here you’ll find intricate woodwork alongside things in the I-didn’t-know-I-needed-that category like Squid Game stuffed toy “players.”

Dolores Hidalgo — About 40 minutes northwest of San Miguel de Allende is a pueblo mágico that’s also part of the ruta del vino (wine route) for which the state of Guanajuato is steadily gaining popularity on par with Baja wine tourism. After you stroll around the main square, have a taxi take you to the José Alfredo Jiménez artisan corridor to browse several city blocks of handcrafted souvenirs.

Street Food

Jardín Allende — This will likely be your first stop, as it’s also known as the “heart” of the city, the plaza principal, and a cultural hub where concerts, festivals, larger-than-life puppets and street food carts offer up a visceral introduction.

Taco carts (various) — As with any city in Mexico, locals always have a favorite taco stand, both a personal marker of taste and highly subjective. Tacos Andy is certainly a universal favorite here, but equally excellent are Tacos San Francisco, Tacos de la Güera, and Tacos de Alberto. Choose one, and rep yours confidently.

Tamales Oaxaqueños — Seasoned foodies know not all street vendors have flashy signs or branding; as is the case with the Oaxacan-style tamales wrapped in banana leaves found around town. One sure bet is the white SUV parked in front of Mercado Sano on Saturdays, where I usually grab four at a time to go.

Tianguis de los Martes — There are countless street food options at the Tuesday Market, from green chorizo tacos stacked with french fries to whole fried fish and my soul-restoring favorite, the barbacoa tacos with lamb and consommé. 

Doriesquites — While nieves (Mexican ice cream) dominates the daytime cart culture around the Jardín Allende square, nighttime is all about the sacred corn. In a sliced open bag of Doritos, get the fully loaded version of this classic portable street food with lime, the vendor’s signature spice blend, and cheese.

Where to Find Mexico City’s Best Street Food →

Comida Corrida (Budget: $-$$)

Birria Xalisco — Get the birria de res in the traditional Guadalajara style

Cafe Oso Azul — Sample some Café de Olla (piloncillo-sweetened coffee) with brunch

El Pato Barbacoa — Enjoy a bowl of consommé near the central bus depot

Gorditas Don Ciro — Try freshly squeezed juices and live music on Sundays

Tortas Dolly — Casual, affordable lunch of tortas on artisanal breads

Fine Dining (Budget: $$$-$$$$)

Spotlight: Sal Y Canto

Tucked away like a treasure in Valle de Los Senderos, Sal y Canto is a luxurious gastronomical experience by renowned Mexican restaurateur Juan Pablo Ballesteros and Executive Chef Atzin Santos. Their funky, fragrant, freshly baked brioche spirals with huitlacoche (“corn smut”), truffles, and chili butter sent this extravagant restaurant soaring to the top of our list of fine dining destinations in San Miguel de Allende. 

Bulla — Don’t miss the many varieties of jamón ibérico and paella on offer

Tostévere — Don’t miss seasonal tostadas and an impressively curated cocktail menu

Bovine — Try the chef’s six-course menu inside the “Dragones Table” private room

Naakary — Tour the farm/food lab run by ambitious stewards of the land

Bars & Nightlife

Spotlight: El Manantial

San Miguel’s oldest bar and a former saloon, El Manantial (“The Spring”) was founded in 1920 and is a favorite hangout for locals and tourists who love their ginger margarita, michelada, octopus carpaccio, and artichoke with celery dip.

La Mezcalería, Pulquería La Otomí — Specialty Mexican spirits

La Choperia — 2-for-1 burger night on Thursdays

Cumpanio — Try the Cilantro Margarita and Carajillo

The Bar at the R — Check out vinyl nights Thursday-Saturday and sushi specials

International Cuisine

Spotlight: Chikatana

Located inside the Mercado del Carmen, Chikatana has over 30 menu items from across the Asian-Latin diaspora, but Chef Satoru “Sato” Takeda’s ramen is the highlight of the eclectic fusion menu, topped with a perfect shoyu tamago (soy egg). Along with Chikatana co-owner Aleysha Serrato Garfias, Chef Sato also has plans to open a “cyberpunk” tribute to neo-Tokyo cuisine called SEI featuring Japanese street food favorites like yakitori, ramen, shabu shabu, yakiniku, and more in the spring of 2022.

Spotlight: Kouyin

Eat like Madonna: the steamed mackerel with makrut lime leaves, ginger, soy butter and shiitake mushrooms at Kǒuyīn Asian Eatery is the evolution of a dish Chef Marcela Bolaño once made for the famous entertainer to rave reviews at a private kosher dinner. Kǒuyīn is a feast for the senses with panoramic views of San Miguel. Chef Marcela and her team express deep respect and affection for Asian diaspora cuisines in each plate. 

Xam Xam — Asian dinner menu nightly at Inside Café

Mesa Marrakesh — Located inside Mercado del Carmen next to Chikatana

Lima — Live music on Thursdays and salsa nights on Fridays

Why Cumbia Is the Musical Soul of Mexico City →

The Bucket List

Eat, shop, and people watch at the zocalo.

This should be your first stop, as it’s the central gathering place to see the Jardín Allende, the Parroquia (iconic pink church visible from almost anywhere in town), and a rotating calendar of cultural events, including informal performances by traveling mariachis and puppeteers.

Go to a festival.

Some of the most famous festivals in and around San Miguel include the Guanajuato International Film Festival, an annual celebration of hot air balloons in León, the International Jazz & Blues Festival, and a handful of other tributes to fashion, design, and Mexican culture, like the Festival de la Toltequidad in Mineral de Pozos, our top pick for a memorable day trip. But, if you had to plan around one special occasion, Día de Muertos is especially vibrant in San Miguel de Allende, offering a rare moment for reflection and celebration, where the worlds of the living and the dead join for a deeper sense of community.

Marvel at The Chapel of Jimmy Ray.

The Chapel of Jimmy Ray is both a public gallery (by appointment) and the home of Richard Shultz and his husband, the late artist Anado McLauchlin, located just a few miles outside of San Miguel de Allende in La Cieneguita. Part living monument, altar and 20-year work-in-progress, the Chapel also includes an artist studio, garden, gift shop, and tiled murals that span the entire property. Founded in 2012, the gallery also presents works by “select artists Anado has bonded with on a visual and emotional level.” Richard is a charming host and guide, though he’s quick to deflect compliments in favor of praising his partner, Anado, who was also widely beloved in and outside of San Miguel. 

Take a thermal bath.

From Mayan Baths (public and private options) to Escondido Place and the full-service La Gruta Spa, plus family-friendly XOTE aquatic park, dipping in the natural hot springs is a welcome respite to recharge.

Soak in natural beauty.

An effortless addition to any San Miguel visit is a walk through the tranquil Benito Juárez park or El Charco del Ingenio botanical gardens. To see the purple jacaranda trees in full bloom, plan to come in Spring.

Support local artists.

Art and artists are everywhere, but three places to really get immersed in the creative spirit that should be on any San Miguel itinerary are the former textile factory and currently a hub of artist studios and galleries Fábrica La Aurora, public library and café La Bibilioteca (with its own theater for regular concerts and events), and the Instituto Allende art school.

Why Artists Are Escaping to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico →

Plan a picture-perfect day.

San Miguel is easily one of the world’s most photogenic cities, from eye-catching murals, alleyways and doors to the Ranchito Cascabel (by appointment), spending a whole day just “finding your light” for the shot is so enjoyable that there are even local photographers on Airbnb and similar platforms who’ll follow you around to do it.

Take a walking tour.

Walking tours are available for every interest; learn more about San Miguel’s architecture, houses and gardens (led by the public library), or history (special walking tour benefiting local children in need), or try the free Fat Bastard Art Walk for a look at harder-to-spot public artworks by local creatives.

Visit a museum.

Museums in San Miguel may not rival those of other big cities, but there’s plenty to enjoy for the culturally curious, including a private collection of 500 masks, former convent turned “El Nigromante” Cultural Center, and the Wine Museum of Guanajuato, in nearby Dolores Hidalgo’s old hospital.

Shop local.

Outside of the Mercado de las Artesanías, you’ll also find some impressive high-end stores to stock your closet with Mexican designer labels: Mixta, Recreo, and Dôce 18 Concept House are at the top of our luxury shopping list for the most design conscious trendsetters. Next, visit Botica de Santa Teresita, a trusted apothecary since 1852, spanning seven generations of expert herbalists.

Go off the beaten path.

From flying high in a hot air balloon, one of the most coveted activities for a breathtaking sunrise view, to horseback riding and four-wheeling in an ATV through the desert, adventure-seekers won’t be disappointed with San Miguel’s ecotourism options.

Have a self-care day.

Rooftop yoga and a massage is the perfect duet at Esencia Yoga Spa, located just a stone’s throw from our favorite bakery, Panina, and the plant-based food hall Mercado Sano. To offer a nails, hair, and makeup pampering day to yourself or a loved one, book your appointments at Yellow Nails (daily specials, including a mother-daughter deal), Melbaug Hair Design (whose owners will shower you with personal attention and 20+ years of experience), and the Pink Room, all standouts for top notch service and pricing.

Go on a wellness retreat.

Book yourself a stay at the Sagrada Holistic Ranch, where “resident donkeys” mosey up to your table at breakfast, and an exclusive, restorative vacation awaits you. All-inclusive retreats for yoga, pilates, and spa services are available, as is the option to create your own sanctuary stay.

Where to Stay

Spotlight: Casa Eteréa

The magic is in the details at Casa Etérea, our top pick for where to stay in San Miguel de Allende for its romantic desert charm and “emotional architecture.” Sunsets are spectacular from every angle at this L-shaped and mirrored theater of nature. Other memorable features include a private, solar heated pool and mini-deck for sunbathing that perfectly fits one or two dreamers sprawling out, a fully equipped open kitchen, a deep and therapeutic copper bathtub, and a number of à la carte add-ons like guided horseback riding and hiking excursions, private chef and home massage appointments.

Mesón Hidalgo — Three rooms. Four women-led, Mexico-based brands. A guesthouse-boutique, luxury shops, and curated, artist-led experiences.

Casa No Name — Six rooms. Formerly home and atelier to renowned fashion {{pin:undefined}}photographer Deborah Turbeville. Garden, cocktail bar, and terrace.​

Casa de los Soles — Four unique stays starting at just $80 USD/night for two. Casa de Los Soles Loreto has one of the most Instagrammed courtyards in town, while one of the casitas has room for up to 12 guests and their own private pool.

Casa Karina — Two rooms. Sleeps up to six, and its heated glass bottom pool is also visible as a skylight. Rooftop terrace, panoramic views, and firepit, anyone?

Day Trips

Spotlight: Mineral de Pozos

Known as both a ghost town and a pueblo mágico, Mineral de Pozos tops our list of best day trips from San Miguel de Allende, located just over an hour to the northeast by car. It’s not often included in most typical day trip round-ups, and local guides (some as young as nine years old) who you can hire on site to give you a tour of the old Santa Brígida mines will tell you the majority of tourists are Mexican, hailing from around the region. Yet, famous travelers like Yoko Ono have passed through, and numerous films featuring global icons like Antonio Banderas have also been shot in Mineral de Pozos.

Start (or end) your day at Emiliano’s Bar, where the staff is eager to share knowledge about locally made mezcal and artisan beers, and you can get elotes with all the fixings (cream, chili powder, cheese, etc.) hot off the grill just out front. There are lavender fields, an inactive but deeply storied mine looms large with three pointed domes imposing over the desert landscape, and even a beer spa to make the trip worthwhile.

Guanajuato City + La Ruta del Vino — Geographically speaking, you could plan a day or more just making the loop between San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Dolores Hidalgo, and Atotonilco. There are fully guided “wine route” tours available from multiple operators, but choosing one or two vineyards makes for a lovely day trip that can be organized with a local taxi service or in your own car. If your schedule allows for a more leisurely trip and you’re a true oenophile, make sure to stay a minimum of two nights at El Nidal, located in Vergel de la Sierra (near León). Glamp in fully equipped recycled shipping container “nests,” enjoy traditional open fire cooking, and taste over 30 ferments and artisan distills after a tour of the mezcals, ancestral wines made in clay barrels, and brewery palenque. 

Cañada de la Virgen — From Tuesday to Sunday, you can plan a tour (approximately two hours) of this archaeological zone, complete with sacred pyramids, an organic ranch, nature sanctuary, and private farm-to-table dinners.

Know Before You Go

Travel Tips

You can reach San Miguel de Allende by its nearest airports: Guanajuato International Airport (BJX) and Querétaro Intercontinental Airport (QRO), approximately 90 minutes outside the city. My favorite way to travel Mexico is by bus; Primera Plus has been a reliable, affordable luxurious option for the majority of my travels here with its far reclining seats, free entertainment options, unlimited free baggage, and picturesque views along the highways.

Round trip bus tickets from Mexico City or Guadalajara to San Miguel are typically under $50USD and can often be purchased the same day.

Packing Tips

Exploring San Miguel de Allende is full of moderately challenging “city hikes,” ranging from cobblestone streets and unpaved backroads to steep hills that appear out of nowhere. For the adventurous, non-disabled traveler, a sturdy pair of shoes should be at the top of your packing list. My personal travel hack is rubber-soled Tevas or Birkenstocks with socks, durable enough for uneven terrain with an option to air out your toes when the sun hits. If you’re an avid Instagrammer, you may have already seen the Miguelati signature look: a “Boss of the Plains”-style hat with a wide brim, a flowy dress by day with a leather jacket to layer at night, and either sandals (day) or boots (night). To stand apart from the masses, focus on function over form, opting for comfortable layers in your travel wardrobe and the most durable footwear you own.