Shanghai epitomizes China’s incredible duality. Its streets are ancient, many of them dating back to the 7th century when it was a modest fishing village on the Yangtze River. But the version we know now—where speakeasies hide around every corner, where you can sample Chinese food from all regions of the country in one place, and where hotels rarely shy away from opulence—is, like the rest of the country, moving full-steam ahead towards the future.

Even in this metropolis where more than 26 million people live, work, and play, there are still places and people that stand out as big fish in one of the world’s biggest ponds. Below, find the places where Here’s editors and in-the-know locals enjoy the best that Shanghai has to offer.