As the creator of Subway Book Review, Uli Beutter Cohen discovers people and places through books. Her literary guide to Zurich allows you to do the same.
Zurich is a rich city—a very rich city. Standing in the city center waiting for a tram with my $8 coffee in hand, I see red, blue, and green Lamborghinis cruise down the street as if they have just fallen out a bag of M&Ms. But don’t let this lifestyle of the rich and sometimes famous intimidate you. After a visit here, it’s clear that the status quo is being questioned and challenged, just as it was in the early 20th century when the Dada Movement was born in Zurich.
Read Like a Local
“The German title [Und Was Hat Das Mit Mir Zu Tun?] of the book I’m reading translates to ‘and what does that have to do with me?’” says Isabella, a local I spoke with underground at the Main Station. “There are so many questions we could be asking.”
Switzerland is famous for its neutrality and for staying out of conflicts. I was curious to hear what the locals think about it. Turns out, the next generation of readers and writers are not afraid to look beyond the surface.
“The author, Swiss journalist Sacha Batthyany, suddenly finds out that there is a great mystery in his family,” Isabella continues. “Someone leaves pictures on his desk at work from a party in his aunt’s castle. At the end of this party, the guests killed 180 people. It’s not entirely clear how or if his aunt was involved. He deals with this terrifying revelation about his family in a very interesting way. Instead of ignoring it, he starts to do research and eventually writes this book. Everybody has a family story where someone has witnessed something. This book really touched me.”
What To See
Start your day at Café Odeon, a glitzy but cozy coffee house and bar with a long history close to Bellevue Station that serves a classic breakfast in an iconic location. For decades, politicians, scientists, writers, musicians, and other artists would come here to work and discuss their theories, including Albert Einstein, Lenin, and James Joyce. This café is an institution, but it’s welcoming to all.
This book store, which used to be a butcher shop, sells international architecture, photography, art, and design books. Its name, Never Stop Reading, is a request to stay true to the analogue life, something I am happy to oblige. Wander along the narrow alleys after your visit and read your new treasure next to one of the many fountains that are dotted around the city center.
Cabaret Voltaire got its international fame as the birthplace of the Dada Movement. In 1916, the cabaret started to exhibit radically experimental and often exiled artists, including Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, Sophie Taeuber-Arp, and Max Ernst. Make sure to see the current exhibits and to get the Dada Hand Book when you stop by, a souvenir and great reminder to be your unapologetic self.
Sometimes you need to drink a cup of coffee that was made in a coffee shop that’s been roasting and brewing their own since 1864. When this mood strikes you in Zurich, there’s no better place to visit than Schwarzenbach Teecafé. Don’t forget to bring your book. Their plush red couches are divine. It’s also just down the street from Cabaret Voltaire.
This is the perfect spot for all of us who love books. The Strauhof is a literary museum and a place where literature can actually be seen. During my visit, writer and fellow Brooklyn resident Teju Cole was exhibiting “Blind Spot,” a show exploring the relationship between images and language. The trip was a two-for-one because the same building houses the James Joyce Foundation, which offers special events and tours so you can see Zurich through James Joyce’s eyes.
Where To Read
This cultural center houses a restaurant, a bar, a bookstore, a reading lounge, cinemas, and auditoriums, and is generally a great place for discourse. As if that wasn’t enough, one side of the Kosmos overlooks the train station and the other side faces the red light district along Langstrasse, which may be seedy but has a lot of cool, new bistros and restaurants popping up nearby. Try Piccolo Giardino for a Mediterranean dinner or Marktküche for upscale vegetarian dining.
On weekends, Frau Gerold’s Garten, a big city garden, turns into an outdoor market that sells clothes, tchotchkes, and locally grown food. When it’s warm, find a spot on one of the terraces. In the winter, cozy up in the lodge with some raclette and a good read next to the fireplace. If you feel like a night out, make a late night stop at one of the many nightclubs in the area, like Helsinki Club, for live music.
There’s no better reading spot than at the side of a body of water if you ask me. Lake Zurich is in the middle of the city, so you can’t miss it. Along the lake near the city center, Badis – public swimming pools built into the lake – is a huge draw. On a clear day, the view of the Alps is spectacular and it’s easy to imagine why writers like Mary Shelley and J.R.R. Tolkien were inspired by the Swiss landscape. This is an excellent place to end your trip—or start your next one. Maybe on one of the trains that can take you high up into the mountains.
Follow Uli Beutter Cohen on @subwaybookreview for more people and their books around the world.